Tuesday, February 14, 2006 @ 12:00 PM
Valentine's Day Session
| Location: | Sands |
| Weather: | Warm and Sunny |
| Conditions: | A bit junked up |
| Swell: | 11.3ft @ 11s @ 305° |
| Surf: | Head High Sets |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: | 52 Sessions in Replacement Suit. |
Sands looked like a confused beachbreak during a storm. It looked to be holding the swell ok, even saw some sick pits, but it was shifty and bumpy. Upon paddling out it was bigger then it looked from the beach, and after catching some waves it was more unmakeable then it looked from the beach. Kyle took 3 consecutive lefts where he'd disapear into a wall of water, and come up saying he'd almost made it. He got drilled.
Two hours earlier I was under the knife, having the dermatologist carve a 5mm ball out of my chest. With 7 stiches in my chest, I was a little hesitant to takeoff on anything that would rag doll me. I caught two or three fun long ones. The best was the last wave, after we had drifted down from the bar to Outer Stu's. I caught a long driving right that offered a few lip trysts, all the way down to the cliff.