| Location: |
Central Coast |
| Weather: |
Wow, warm and sunny before strong winds |
| Conditions: |
Less Close Out O-Rama |
| Swell: |
8.3ft @ 12s @ 320° |
| Surf: |
Head High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
60 Sessions in Replacement Suit. |
Comments:
To have a good surf session, you really have to have confidence in your equipement. So after two sessions in a row of leash malfunctions, it was good to surf today with a brand new leash I know I got on right. Today wasn't closing out as much, but the paddle out worked me worse than yesterday. The paddle out highway was shut down early and required some brute force duck diving thru very cold water twice as long as yesterday. When I made it out, I honestly thought I would puke, I have never felt that before in cold water on the head. Next season I swear I'm buying a hood.
A lot of better rides today. Converse Clan said hello from high up on the pier, and I showed off for them. The lefts were sweet litte wedgy things that you kept thinking would peter out but instead kept building mo. Best wave of the session was the last, Bear was on the pier, I waved then backdoored a left towards the pier. I hadn't seen a single barrel here all weekend, but this thing pitched out, and I rode in that purgatory of not being in the tube and yet feeling like you are almost there for a few seconds before the lip hit clocked me. Best wave of the weekend.