| Location: |
Montecito Coast |
| Weather: |
Windy all Day but calm now |
| Conditions: |
Shuffled |
| Swell: |
12.8ft @ 14s @ 305° |
| Surf: |
Waist High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
57 Sessions in Replacement Suit. |
Comments:
Bought a 6'5" Dave Johnson shaped after the CI Mongrel template off of Josh yesterday and wanted to see how it rode. Massive wind all day accompanied the new swell but by 3:00 the flags were dead. Afterwork session with just 2 or 3 other surfers along the Montecito Coast. Waist High or so, sometimes some bigger sneaker sets would come in. Shuffled, and funny, sometimes highly makeable and sometimes shutting down. The Mongrel caught waves like a champ, it's bound to with 2 5/8" thickness and a lot of "forward volume." Sort of reminds me of the old 6'6" Haut single fin, lost of foam in the nose, very little rocker, and really thick. Only this board was modernized with a thruster setup and double concave thru the fins.
The Mongrel surfed like it should, got into waves real good, was fast, and was good for well thought out turns. It wasn't very good in situations that merited swift manuvering, and I found myself digging rail a few times, and floating off the back too. It's a lot like the 6'2" Dave Johnson Fish, and I don't know which I like better yet. The sun went down and the temperature started it's rapid descent. The water was up to 52° now, and it didn't feel bad in the 3/2 without booties for evening session. Not sure that equipment would work well for dawn patrol.