| Location: |
Central Coast |
| Weather: |
Cold Front Departing |
| Conditions: |
Close Out O-Rama |
| Swell: |
7.4ft @ 11s @ 310° |
| Surf: |
Head High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
59 Sessions in Replacement Suit. |
Comments:
Session 2 on the Mongrel, this time North of Pt. Conception, although the water felt about the same as our water temp in Santa Barbara. Paddle out was easy, just keep within arms reach of the pier pilings and you'll only have to duck dive the last few waves. 4 duck dives however was enough to give me an ice cream headache so bad I thought I would puke. These waves were going nowhere. A lot of guys out in the lineup shaking there heads, not knowing what to take off on. So everyone went on what they could. Right or left, it really didn't matter, although sometimes the left that breaks towards the pier made the most sense.
An hour into it I lost my board. I was using Wild Bill's spare leash after Thursday's breakage and I guess I didnt' tie the leash string tight enough. That was along swim, from the end of the pier to the shore, getting hit on the head with whitewash every 11 seconds. I rolled into Pancho's and bought the 3/16" DaKine leash again, this time in red, and somehow suckered the kid into giving me the bro discount. He must of not seen my session.