Thursday, March 02, 2006 @ 4:30 PM
To The Water Again
| Location: | Rincon |
| Weather: | Storm Front Moving In |
| Conditions: | Some Texture Yet No Complaints |
| Swell: | 11.6ft @ 12s @ 300° |
| Surf: | Chest High Sets |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: | 53 Sessions in Replacement Suit. |
Hadn't surfed in 3 weeks. At first it was pickiness having surfed great waves for 2 months. Then it was flat, then it was weather. The buoys were at 2 feet at 8am, rose to 6 feet at noon, and by 4:00 they were at 12 feet. A storm was forecast to move in tonight, so action was needed. Rincon it was, a no look jaunt down the path. About a dozen people in the cove but only 4 surfers up from there. Paddled out at the Rivermouth and caught one of the best waves of the session right off the bat. A thick shoulder high wave or so that raced down the line, and dumped be out almost to the Cove lineup. A long paddle back and a few shorter smaller waves. Two more nice long set waves. The cold front was developing, you could feel the cold wind starting up, you could see the clouds starting to gather over the hills. It looked like it would rain at any moment but it didn't.
Rincon homeowners came home from work and stared up there fireplaces. The smoke streaming from the homes looked cozy, but my wetsuit gave me a warm feeling too. The 4 other surfers I was surfing with were good, one guy pulled a giantic floater, and we were an escalator of wave riders. Water was dirty, tasted pretty nasty, and didn't look much better. Even though, it was good to be out.