Wednesday, April 12, 2006 @ 6:00 PM

 

After Work Swell

Location: Sands and Deveraux
Weather: Sunny, Some Offshores
Conditions: Great
Swell: 10.9ft @ 14s @ 295°
Surf: Shoulder High
Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: 67 Sessions in Replacement Suit.
Comments:

With IanI just back from Costa Rica, I hit it with him and Greggory. We started out at Sands, but the swell was little too big for Sands on this tide. Head high closeouts were pretty unmakeable, especially on the equipment we all had on us. A couple of banzai takeoffs but nothing pretty. After a half hour of this we walked to Deveraux and paddled out. We were paddling out and we saw some brazillian kid drop in on an old salty Goleta longboarder. Then, in what I thought only occured south of the the Ventura County Line, the old Goletian jumped off his board and starting punching the Brazillian kid. It was loco. He then paddled back out. Meanwhile I caught a great wave then paddled out to the point. They were arguing, the kid apologizing yet saying "what was that all about", the Goletian just pissed. Certainly brought a vibe to the water. I caught a lot of fun waves in the first half hour, then the crowd was unbearable. I lost IanI and Greggory, had no idea where they went. Around sunset I headed in, thinking they were on the beach looking for me. Not so, I guess they were still out. Great session, fights and all.



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