| Location: |
Rincon |
| Weather: |
Cloudy, some South Wind |
| Conditions: |
Reddish Brown Chunky Lefts |
| Swell: |
3.6ft @ 10s @ 305° |
| Surf: |
Knee High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
69 in replacement suit |
Comments:
The no-look-because-you-know-it-will-discourage-you session, with a suit up and a walk down the upper lot stairs to a lineup empty of surfers and waves. The water was a reddish brown color that looked like the slurry leftover from a red brick factory. Backdoored the 'lineup' on the Fish and sat out for a long time trying to figure out if I could catch a wave before hitting the rocks. Nursing a mild hangover from celebrating IanI's
promotion to Major last night left me a little slow to begin with. Soon some two wave sets were pouring in to break over the Indicator reef to make fast fun lefts. I was joined by a nice fellow on a longboard from San Diego who was staying at the house we were surfing in front of. We traded these two wave sets for the remainder of the session, both the longboard and the Fish seemingly both being ideal tools for the lack of waves. My most consistent backside surfing on the Fish ever. Much progress made.