| Location: |
Goleta Beachbreaks |
| Weather: |
Overcast |
| Conditions: |
Textured and Crumbly |
| Swell: |
7.8ft @ 12s @ 310° |
| Surf: |
Knee to Thigh High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
118 Sessions |
Comments:
Small, foggy day along the Goleta coast. I probably would not have even gone out except for Bobby Morris was out there making the waves actually look rideable. He'd get up on some small crumbly wave, dig in on a couple of pumps down the line, then explode into some contorted air or tail slide and land in a ball of foam. He was straight off of his loss in the Trestles Surf Bout against Dustin Cuizon who went on to win the contest, and was obviously honing his skills in cruddy conditions. I surfed to the West of him, typically going left on the peaks he'd go right on. It's true, he's no longer surfing a yellow board, but he still has the Glas stickers and his same short blonde haircut along with his mind blowing speed on junky waves like this. This was a pretty fun session considering the crudtastic waves, got a few waves with down the line speed and some backside lip hits.