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| Date/Time: |
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Monday, 22 December 2003 12:30-1:30 |
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| Location: |
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Gaviota Coast |
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| Weather: |
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Cloudy, not earthquake weather |
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| Conditions: |
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Choppy and Pitching Marching Lines |
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| Swell: |
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8.4' @ 17s @ 305° |
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Tide: |
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2.0 and dropping |
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| Surf: |
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Overhead Sets w/ Rogues a few feet over |
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Board: |
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Roberts |
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Wetsuit Sessions: |
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046 ($5.43/session) |
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Comments:
Hadn't surfed since Friday night, this would be the opposite of the weekend warrior for me. We had an earthquake earlier in the day, a magnitude 6.5 that was 11 miles out of San Simeon. About 30 seconds of our building here in Goleta rolling but no damage. Some major damage in Paso Robles and 2 fatalaties. Buoys were dead in the morning but came alive later on, Pete called outta the water and it was sizeable at Coal Oil. Headed up to the Gaviota Coast to a spot I hadn't surfed since last winter.
On the walk I saw fast perfectly shaped waves pitching down the coast. I paddled out as the only soul but it didn't look big at all. As soon as I got out there a huge set came in outside. 4 waves in a row, all overhead and peeling down the line. I took it on the head on each of them then proceeded to catch a smaller one after them. For the next hour we had 3 of these cleanup sets that were well overhead. In between those sets was chest to head high waves that often sectioned out a lot. The big ones held up better surprisingly.
I never caught one of the bombs. I was always either caught inside or taking off too late. I needed a buddy out there to fire me up cause I was taking it way to easy. A guy walked by with a yellow longboard, I was hoping he'd head out to inspire me but he kept going. The waves I did catch were fast and fun...I got in a lot of turns and a few head dips. Tommorrow...surfing with buds to motivate me to drop into the bombs.