Tuesday, May 02, 2006 @ 5:30 PM
| Location: |
Goleta Beachbreaks |
| Weather: |
Overcast |
| Conditions: |
Red Tide Crubmly Crud |
| Swell: |
6.2ft @ 11s @ 300° |
| Surf: |
Knee High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
119 Sessions |
Comments:
Short 45 minute session by myself in conditions that can best be described as dismal. The weather was socked in overcast, with a slight onshore breeze. The water was cold and was dark brown-red, probably the start of red time forming again this spring. Brings back too many memmories of last summer, with flat conditions, fog and red tide for months on end, not to mention daily sightings of dead seals on the beach. I got a dozen waves or so in the knee high range, at first typically getting shut down behind a crumbly section but towards the end actually milking a few waves to the beach. The only good thing about today was it was the 1 year anniversary of getting my Fish, and I surfed it the same place, and nearly the same conditions as it's
first session.
Monday, May 01, 2006 @ 5:30 PM
| Location: |
Goleta Beachbreaks |
| Weather: |
Overcast |
| Conditions: |
Textured and Crumbly |
| Swell: |
7.8ft @ 12s @ 310° |
| Surf: |
Knee to Thigh High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
118 Sessions |
Comments:
Small, foggy day along the Goleta coast. I probably would not have even gone out except for Bobby Morris was out there making the waves actually look rideable. He'd get up on some small crumbly wave, dig in on a couple of pumps down the line, then explode into some contorted air or tail slide and land in a ball of foam. He was straight off of his loss in the Trestles Surf Bout against Dustin Cuizon who went on to win the contest, and was obviously honing his skills in cruddy conditions. I surfed to the West of him, typically going left on the peaks he'd go right on. It's true, he's no longer surfing a yellow board, but he still has the Glas stickers and his same short blonde haircut along with his mind blowing speed on junky waves like this. This was a pretty fun session considering the crudtastic waves, got a few waves with down the line speed and some backside lip hits.
Sunday, April 30, 2006 @ 9:00 AM
| Location: |
Rincon |
| Weather: |
Overcast |
| Conditions: |
Cleaner and Bigger |
| Swell: |
6.0ft @ 8s @ 315° |
| Surf: |
Thigh to Waist High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
117 Sessions |
Comments:
IanI came this morning and the lineup was pretty empty and chilly today. Waves seemed a little bigger than yesterday and maybe cleaner too. We caught a few fun ones at the Indicator, I actually getting something that made it past the rocks and down towards the Rivermouth. Then we shift South below Indicator a big and traded some of these. Often times we'd get stuck behind the peak when the shifted to the south. A confusing day, figuring where to sit. Rewards were good as we both caught a lot of waves and surfed well.
Saturday, April 29, 2006 @ 9:00 AM
| Location: |
Rincon |
| Weather: |
Overcast |
| Conditions: |
Somewhat Junky |
| Swell: |
3.7ft @ 10s @ 300° |
| Surf: |
Thigh High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
116 Sessions |
Comments:
Cold and empty lineup up on this overcast saturday morning. Paddled out on the backside and paddled over past the Indicator into the Rivermouth where I settled into some fun waves above the mouth. Two longboarders came soon and sat outside of me. Hooded shortboarder sat at the Indicator and picked off the lefts that were squeaking through. Rincon continues to make one surf like a superhero, with fun drops, speed down the line for some lip hits and then an opportunity for a big cutback into the foam. One or two of these waves can improve one's surfing more than all week at a peaky beachbreak. Or so it seems.
Friday, April 28, 2006 @ 12:00 PM
| Location: |
Goleta Beachbreaks |
| Weather: |
Overcast |
| Conditions: |
Clean and Consistent |
| Swell: |
7.1ft @ 11s @ 305° |
| Surf: |
Knee to Thigh High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
115 Sessions ($2.17/session) |
Comments:
IanI and Greggory tried to dawn patrol the low tide at Deveraux today but it was too small. I was expecting bagels too, but higher tide at lunch at a beachbreak was actually surfable. Similiar session to last night, maybe a little smaller but cleaner too.
Thursday, April 27, 2006 @ 5:30 PM
| Location: |
Goleta Beachbreaks |
| Weather: |
Overcast |
| Conditions: |
Fairly Clean and Peaky |
| Swell: |
8.1ft @ 11s @ 315° |
| Surf: |
Thigh High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
74 in replacement suit |
Comments:
First time I've surfed this little dinky beachbreak in months, to me it was all but non-existant this winter. This was the first time the rain and wind were gone and we had some amount of swell in a couple of weeks. About dozen people in the water, almost all groms on shredsticks. You could tell the lineup's alegiance to Surf Country by gear in the water: Rip Curl wetsuits. In fact Doug himself was out there. Paddington Bear was out there too, which confused me. I thought he was a Carp local because of how often I see him tearing up Rincon and his A Frame sponsorship. Once I saw him at Sands and I just figured he was with his buddies. But today, by himself, at some dinky beachbreak in Goleta. I don't think Paddington Bear is Matt Johnson, I think he is some other NSSA shredster and the research must continue.
We cannot complain about the waves. They were clean marching down the coast from the West. A lot of them were gutless and somewhat frustrating but some would pitch out a little bit like early morning glass. These were not the Hero waves one can get used to at Rincon, where the waves hold up so well you pull moves above your level. No, these waves made you surf below your level. You'd drop in, see nice wall, pump down the line and then the wave would just fall apart when it left the sandbar.
Sunday, April 23, 2006 @ 8:00 AM
| Location: |
Rincon |
| Weather: |
Overcast |
| Conditions: |
Shuffled |
| Swell: |
5.9ft @ 11s @ 300° |
| Surf: |
Knee to Waist High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
73 in replacement suit |
Comments:
A sleeper session at the Rincon. A paddle out on the backside of Rincon and the waves looked completely cruddy. A paddle around the Indicator into the Rivermouth and suddently consistent waves are coming. I surfed alone the whole time except for a foreign guy on a Roberts I traded waves with for a half hour. A grom was past the Rivermouth and a few longboarders were in the Cove, but besides that it was a sleepy spring day at Rincon. Although small and not the classic shape of Rincon, the point break did put out some serious hero waves, letting me surf above my ability. Caught a million waves.
Thursday, April 20, 2006 @ 6:00 PM
| Location: |
Sands |
| Weather: |
Cold and Cloudy |
| Conditions: |
Small and Crumbled |
| Swell: |
None |
| Surf: |
Knee High every 20 minutes |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
72 in replacement suit |
Comments:
Worst session ever. Long walk to sands on sore feet. Cold, cloudy and windy. Got there. One guy out. No waves in sight. Paddled out anway. Got 4 waves in 20 minutes. Walked back to car. Worst session ever.
Wednesday, April 19, 2006 @ 5:30 PM
| Location: |
Sands |
| Weather: |
Sunny in the 70's |
| Conditions: |
Clean and Small |
| Swell: |
3.4ft @ 8s @ 315° |
| Surf: |
Knee High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
71 in replacement suit |
Comments:
Warm, sunny weather and small, playfull waves at Sands. This could be what the next 5 months look like around here: being satisfied by knee high windswell at the local beachbreaks. With the small waves came warm water. The Stearns Wharf gauge was reading 59° a few days ago although now it says 54°, which I don't believe. A couple dozen surfers spread from Stu's down to Sandbar, with some consistent knee high rollers and every now and then a thigh high set would thrill the crowd. A lot of folks on the beach, running the trials, and playing guitar, finally getting outside after weeks and weeks of junky weather. Water was pretty clean, not too much tar and clear enough to see fish swim through the peaks of the waves and they lulled by. Some offshore operation going on between Sands and
Platform Holly, a funny looking boat doing something of some sort, could of been working on the seep tents or some UCSB research.
Sunday, April 16, 2006 @ 9:30 AM
| Location: |
Rincon |
| Weather: |
Cloudy, some South Wind |
| Conditions: |
Junk |
| Swell: |
9.0ft @ 17s @ 320° |
| Surf: |
Knee High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
70 in replacement suit |
Comments:
Easter Sunday, who stole the swell? The Harvest Buoy was doubled over yesterday, yet the swell was nowhere to be seen, even smaller than yesterdays small session. The south wind didn't help, making any waves that did make it through into complete junk. About a dozen rides all worth about 2 seconds each. Gave up early and started building a driftwood fort on the beach while Bear was running.