| Best Surfs of 1999 |
| by Mama Sus |
I am always slow at looking back over the last year ... but, since 1999 was just my second year of surfing seriously (i.e., going out for more than a light shore break), I think I can look back and say 'wow!'Best surfs? ...
yah ... it has been a good year for surfing ...
- OK ... not being a suck up here ... but my session with Neal and Bud when I did the suicide lip launch was definitely a highlight. It was a 'graduation' -- surfing with the *real* surfers ... LOL ...
- All my sessions with new friends are memorable: the 'chickapalooza' (Jules and Glenda) that first day treking around to three different breaks was a gas, and taking the show out to Lani's was "heavenly"; I still believe schrocat took me out to Barber's Point as shark-bait (thus setting off my paranoia about longboarders); and the session with Niko from Ontario was unique because I was the one showing him around ... lol ... he was such a good sport he even enjoyed the poi and lomi salmon breakfast before we paddled out!
- My most memorable moments, however, are probably those solitary ones ... my first wave at Goats where I gasped as the water just fell out from under me; the nite I paddled in through stunning sunset colors as the full moon rose through a transparent rainbow over diamondhead (I kid you not! cosmic!) the times I nearly drowned (sigh); the times I took it 'one more level up' and, instead of backing away ... made it down a face that had haunted me in my dreams.
Malama Pono
Mama Sus