The one I'll remember for a while? Last week. The weather in Socal has been warm all Fall/Winter.

Took last week off from work to play. Sunny, hot day, and amazingly enough, Malibu was showing great waves. Outstanding, well shaped summer-like south swells wrapped into the beach. The crowd was lighter than summer, though. At the end of the second day of surfing it, I found myself scratching for an outside set at second point.

Turned around and realized I was the only one in place for it. I took off and SMILE! it didn't close out like I expected. At head high, it just peeled and peeled and peeled for yards on end. I hit the top and the bottom, managed a round house cutback and enjoyed every moment of it. Guys were hooting all the way down the line. For a change, I wasn't on the sidelines watching someone else do it, I WAS THAT GUY!

The wave ended close to the first point take off but it will keep peeling in my mind for months to come.