This hasn't been a particularly memorable year for swells. I can't really dredge up an unusually stoked session... since the swells were all mediocre, either in shape or size I'd have to narrow it down to the 3 best waves... sad, but true.

1. Probably the best was one smallish day at Wedge in October. Most of the boys were sitting inside riding the sidewave. Since I'm a peaky kinda guy I was hanging outside meditating, when suddenly this bomb set appeared out of nowhere. I took off on the first wave which was about 15-18' in the face and hollow-- just ripped it-- heard *HOOT* *HOOT* from the boys watching on the beach. After the closeout (we never pull out on 'em) I popped-up inside and watched each of those 5-6 gifts from God detonate like depth charges as the boys scratched for the horizon. There was so much water moving I barely made it under each one in the 2 foot cushion at the shallow bottom. The view of those barrels was unbelievable.

2. Blacks, sometime around May. Met up with about 10-12 bodysurfers from San Diego County. There was a contest happening at south peak so we swam out there and up to middles where we cleared out a spot and ripped it for a few hours. I took off on a beauty left about 10' in the face, as I dropped in I saw a school of shiney silver fish in the wave below me -- probably a hundred of 'em. I layed out in the barrel and those fish stayed ahead of me for 20-30 yards-- awesome!

3. Just a few days ago at Wedge. Took off on a 6' sidewave... no big deal except that it was a perfect toob that glowed like crystal neon blue from the low sun behind it. It was totally silent in there except for the spray coming off my hand... as I skimmed over a bro swimming under the wave I wanted to exclaim from the stoke, but didn't-- water was crystal clear enough to see the sand grains below, a personal moment I'll never forget.

Live to ride... Ride to live.