If heaven is a point break, then heaven on earth must be the cove at Rincon.
In heaven, everyone is at their peak performance, and everyone is on their best behavior, no snaking, no hassling, just good waves... something we never see, at Rincon, on a weekend, on a Sunday, right?
Heaven!I was there yesterday, just like that... at Rincon yet! So yea, I slept Saturday at the Rincon Parkway and got to the Point at 5am, just a little mushing wave and a minus tide so I went back to sleepzzzzzz till I heard the sound of scraping wax in the carpark. Eventually I roused myself to hike down the trail which was dripping with a riot of orange nasturniums and my favorite California Gold bouganvillea (which are really pink-gold and quite filthy looking).
Sat down in the shack which doesn't have a roof these days, just a big fire pit, and watched 4 surfers hooting and hanging five complete with soul arches in the sunshine. Really just knee high and the waves didn't go more than a few yards before they stalled out. So I lost my sandals and started splashing around in the tide pools, hassling the seagulls and hooting the nose rides and I realized I was out there, crappy waves or no.
By the time I got back up to get my gear, all four surfers came up the path, grinning but quitting. Even better. I paddled out by the rivermouth where one short boarder was scowling and having an awful time and sure enuff he quit too. Then two longboarders, a redhead named Rocky and his friend came out. So that's a crowd of three and we were all stoked and taking turns on the little waves. Maybe it was our angelic behavior or blind faith or childish behavior, or maybe it was just the huge incoming tide push... but after a bit there was more water in the cove and the waves stopped mushing out after takeoff and started wrapping all the way through. What a sweet surprise to see a green wall standing up beyond the section ... and it just got better as the tide pushed in.
Suddenly we had the place to ourselves and disgustingly long rides, (and the requisite horrendous long paddles back out) There was now nearly as much whining about the eternal distance as there was hooting and screaming down the line. Still small, just knee high but racey with enough punch to it, it picked up more and more speed the further down the line you got. Paddling back out one of em knocked me stupid, I love it when they have a little power like that. So yea, it was heaven for sure. I just looked at any wave and Rocky said "You want it? Go ahead" hahaha. Neva had such a civilized surf at Rincon... and on a Sunday yet.