'Rat, on a sunset sesh, dialed up to 3.
Today, like just about every day this summer, I was glad I never got that brain fix and went with the Big Wavetrak 2000 implant and lots of drugs instead.Surfed the point at dawn with Kios and had an excellent session. Had to go early cuz Kios has a job and actually needs it, but it was sunny and the sparkles in the water pretty much set me off once the 'gens kicked in. Got an excellent V-barrel off a set wave.
Saw it coming, about 200 yards away. It must've been standing at least 10 feet and starting to feather as I paddled into it.Other than that, it's pretty fuckin' good. I even got the special skegs with the feedback loops, so the board actually responds like it's on a vert transition when the V-barrel kicks in. Yea, I know they suck cuz now any kook with enough fundage can ride, but they sure are fun.Made the drop, drove a hard bottom turn and followed with a slashing cutback and then a dash under the lip. Saw the lip going over my head as I drove up high on the wave, and in slow motion it came thundering down inches from my outside rail.
Inside was all dizzy green loudness, slow and ethereal. That was the best part, I'm not sure how long it lasted but it was good.
Getting out wasn't quite right, I mean it's real nice not getting pinched, spun and dumped head first onto the reef, but the acceleration there is a bit off.
I wonder if I'll get screwed up surfing without the 2000? Been using it so long now (it's been a dismal summer) and it did take a bit to get used to. Maybe the surf will come up some tomorrow and I won't need it.
Writing and all photographs by Leonardo Dagum,
dagum@sgi.com.
Copyright (C) July, 1996. All rights reserved.