"Will surf for food." I need a sign like that. No waves, no gulls, no funds. Junk bought me dinner. Went to some fancy place with big portions. Haven't surfed with him in months. He asked me about the Ano incident. I told him what I knew, and how Zip thought it was the eco-queers. He thought it was strange that the eco's got there so soon, like they must've known right away about it. I don't know though, they're always around it seems. And anyway, why would they be all against surfers. Chapellers are the real enemy. They still want to develop the coast, close the beaches, make it all private for the super rich with their RV's and shit. Junk is smart though, he knows shit I couldn't even dream of.Told Junk about driving with the 2000. He laughed and told me about a place way down south ('Porto' he called it) where they have a concrete sculpture of a head getting barrelled. Real old too, from the last century. I thought it kind of weird.
I think Junk thinks it weird that surfer's like me have no idea where anybody else surfs, like Porto or whatever. But the surf here's just fine (except for the last 3 months, haha), and I don't think he fully appreciates the hassle it is to smuggle boards across Authority district lines. They'll see surfers like me coming, truck full of gull and egret, seal furs lining the seats and pelican beaks hanging off the shell, man they don't need much to find an envi law that'll put you back (or away). It's not like surfers are a recognized religion with immunities, or protected under any diversity group regulations. We're solo, and I for one have enough shit just with surfing and surviving here that doing it elsewhere just don't seem so great.
Surf was blown 2' chop of course. But it feels like tomorrow may get hot with an offshore flow. That'd be nice for a change.
Writing and all photographs by Leonardo Dagum,
dagum@sgi.com.
Copyright (C) July, 1996. All rights reserved.